My restaurant recommendations: North London
Monday, July 30, 2012 at 9:24PM 
We have finally reached North London, the place I call home. This is where I dine most often so I have plenty of recommendations.
I noticed when writing this that almost half the suggestions are pubs. I would like to think that says more about the type of place one chooses to dine locally than my drinking habits. When you eat locally you are usually looking for something easy, convenient and good value with a relaxed atmosphere; a pub is generally all those things.
For the most part, the restaurants included here also fit that description; all are good value and convenient if you live locally, but some of the more popular venues require booking in advance which makes them less ‘easy’ though certainly worth the effort. None of the restaurants are as relaxed as a pub, but none are stuffy and formal either; even the romantic, candlelit Bistro Aix is without pretention.
There are six venues that I haven’t included at this time, which are worth mentioning. Selale and Hala are my favourite kebab houses on Green Lanes, but I have only ever eaten the take away; Isarn was my favourite Thai restaurant for a time but was disappointing on my last visit and I haven’t been in a while. Mosaica at the Factory, Seasons and The Oak and Pastor were all great first time round, but I’ve only been that once so need a repeat visit to decide. I will revisit all these in time and include those I feel confident recommending.
These are my tried and tested local favourites. Get stuck in.
North London
500
Cuisine: Italian
Website: http://500restaurant.co.uk/
Budget: Mid-range
In a nutshell:
If you blink you’ll miss it. This tiny restaurant couldn’t be more welcome in this unassuming part of Holloway Rd. The dining room is strangely decorated with an incongruous clash of new and old art, but who cares about interiors when the food is consistently good and so reasonably priced? Homemade pastas are the highlight – pappardelle al ragu di manzo (pappardelle with beef ragu) is a favourite on a cold night. In summer try the crisp and refreshing green apple sorbet for dessert.
Other info:
- It’s tiny and it’s popular, so book ahead
The Albion
Cuisine: British (gastropub)
Website: http://www.the-albion.co.uk/
Budget: Mid-range
In a nutshell:
"... a Georgian gem left over from a time when Islington was fields and farmland and regulars would take afternoon walks out of the city to visit us”. This peaceful picture doesn’t quite fit with the modern day reality; it still looks the part, but now a short walk from 21st century, urban Upper St, it is a popular destination and always heaving. On a sunny day the large courtyard draws the crowds; in winter it's the promise of good food in cosy surrounds. Food is mostly traditional British, rich and hearty, though there are some lighter dishes on the summer menu. Steak is a speciality (6 cuts, 4 for sharing) and, if you give them notice, they’ll do a whole roast suckling pig for you and nine friends.
Other info:
- Booking is advisable, even on weeknights. Indoor seating is mostly for eating and on a nice day the garden fills up quickly, so you may have a hard time getting a table if you are just stopping by for a pint
Bistro Aix
Cuisine: French
Website: http://www.bistroaix.co.uk/
Budget: Mid-range
In a nutshell:
Don’t let the extensive menu put you off; I did for several years, but people I trust kept recommending it and, when I finally went, I wasn’t disappointed. White tablecloths, candlelight and Renaissance-style paintings make for a romantic venue, but you won’t feel out of place for a quiet dinner with friends. The menu is mostly made up of French classics and this is what they do best. Lapin à la Moutarde (roast rabbit with mustard sauce) is a house specialty and ticks all the boxes, but the roast loin of venison with black pepper sauce, parsnip puree and parsnip chips is on another level. Vegetarians are spoilt for choice, as are the sweet tooths.
Other info:
- It is quiet on weeknights, but booking is advised on weekends
The Bull
Cuisine: Modern European (gastropub)
Website: http://thebullhighgate.co.uk/
Budget: Mid-range
In a nutshell:
This is a recent discovery for me. It’s located just outside Highgate Village so you’re unlikely to stumble across it, but it’s only a short walk and once you know it’s there, you’ll certainly be back. The modern European menu a refreshing change from the British theme which dominates the gastropub scene, particularly on a hot day when stodge is out of the question. It’s a pity the terrace spends most of the day in shadow, but it is nice to have the option to sit outside and one of the benefits of its location is it gets less foot traffic, so you’ve more chance of getting a seat.
Dotori
Cuisine: Japanese/Korean
Address: 3 Stroud Green Rd, Finsbury Park, N4 2DQ
Phone: 020 7263 3562
Budget: Cheap
In a nutshell:
“What? That place across from the bowling alley?” Yes, that place. A strange location is not the only anomaly at Dotori; the mix of Japanese and Korean cuisine baffled me too at first, but it turns out that the Korean family who run it thought their native cuisine would not be enough to entice the locals on its own. I must admit I was reeled in by the sushi (and hooked by the amazing tempura prawns), but with each repeat visit I find myself more and more drawn towards the Korean menu. There’s only ice cream for dessert and the choice of wine (white or red) makes beer the only sensible option, but at least that keeps the cost down.
Other info:
- Like 500, it’s tiny and it’s popular so you need to book ahead, especially on weekends
- My review here (mostly Japanese food); Time out review here (Korean food)
- Korean food is cheaper than Japanese; with a couple of dishes from each I have got away with £15 per person including beers, though £20 is more likely. Lunch is easily under £10 with options such as bento boxes and bibimbap
The Drapers Arms
Cuisine: British (gastropub)
Website: http://www.thedrapersarms.com/
Budget: Mid-range
In a nutshell:
The Drapers Arms still remains a favourite despite the fact that I have, on occasion, been disappointed by the food. The menu is full of great ideas which it doesn’t always deliver, but I still keep coming back. Why? I like the place; it has a nice atmosphere, the staff are friendly and enthusiastic and I am always swayed by a leafy courtyard. It is unfortunate that the kitchen is not more consistent, but when they get it right it’s spot on. Pot roast rabbit in cider, bacon, shallots & new seasons carrot was the highlight of my last visit, while my Mum still fondly recalls the Scottish girolles with lentils, peas and watercress she had her first time.
Other info:
- It is worth booking on weekends, though not essential
The Engineer
Cuisine: British (gastropub)
Website: http://theengineerprimrosehill.co.uk/
Budget: Mid-range
In a nutshell:
I’m a sucker for a beer garden; throw in some vines, pretty flowers and whole lot of atmosphere and I’m there. Turn on the sun and so is everyone else, but unlike a lot of other pubs in London, at The Engineer you can book outside. The food is mostly quite traditional, but cooked with a modern hand. The main courses are dominated by hearty meat dishes, fantastic on a cold day, but they could do with offering some lighter options in the summer. Still, what they do, they do very well and it’s worth coming back for the garden alone.
The Flask
Cuisine: British
Website: http://theflaskhighgate.com/
Budget: Mid-range
In a nutshell:
It’s all about the venue; a delightful beer garden adorned with colourful, overflowing hanging baskets. On a sunny day it heaves with people spilling into the street, but the atmosphere is half the fun. The food can be hit and miss, but it is worth the risk to take advantage of the courtyard. The menu straddles somewhere between modern and traditional pub food, the latter usually more successful. If you are unsure stick to the classics – roasts, fish and chips, sausage and mash. That said, I had a grilled mackerel with potato salad, dill and capers on my first visit and it was fantastic, so it’s worth taking a gamble sometimes.
Other info:
- If it’s sunny and it's the weekend it will be busy so get there early to snag a table and avoid a wait for food
The Faltering Fullback
Cuisine: Thai
Website: http://thefullback.co.uk/
In a nutshell:
Guess what? It’s got a beer garden. Yep, and this is my favourite one of all. In fact, the garden is almost solely responsible for the Fullback appearing here. It’s certainly not a restaurant and a gastropub would be a stretch, but I am not doing a ‘favourite pubs’ post and it would feel wrong to leave it out entirely. They do serve food, so it is not completely bending the rules; a Thai family rent the kitchen and serve simple, good value Thai food, though the choice is somewhat limited. On a sunny day the multi-level courtyard buzzes with people competing for a seat amongst the flowers and foliage. It's loud, it's merry and everyone is smiling. For me, the Fullback epitomises all things that are good about London in the summer.
Other info:
- Dinner only – 6.30pm-10.30pm
The Junction Tavern
Cuisine: Modern European (gastropub)
Website: http://www.junctiontavern.co.uk/home.php
Budget: Mid-range
In a nutshell:
A modest exterior gives the impression of a much smaller venue, but tucked away behind the front bar is a sizable conservatory leading to a leafy courtyard. The garden is no secret though; if the sun’s shining you will need to get there early if you want to sit outside. The modern European menu offers some nice alternatives to typical British gastropub fare. There are several fish options in the summer; pan fried seabass fillet with fregola, mussels, tomato, chilli, garlic and samphire was a bit busy, but a great option for a balmy evening. The kitchen does have a tendency to overcomplicate things; simple dishes work better so stick to those and you won’t be disappointed.
Other info:
- Bookings (inside only) are advisable, particularly on weekends
Ottolenghi
Cuisine: Mediterranean / Middle Eastern
Website: http://www.ottolenghi.co.uk/
Budget: Mid-range
In a nutshell:
If the cakes and pastries piled high in the window are not enough to entice you in, the brightly coloured salads behind will seal the deal. Their breakfasts are said to be the best in London, but be prepared to queue. At lunch pick a main course item, such as lamb kofta, quiche or seared fillet of beef, and chose two or three salads to accompany it. At dinner it's a tapas menu largely influenced by the Mediterranean and Middle East, but with some Asian flavours too. Cold items from the counter are still featured, but a number of hot dishes from the kitchen step things up a notch.
Other info:
- You can’t book for breakfast or lunch and on weekends you’ll definitely have to queue; it’s worth the wait though. Dinner bookings are essential on weekends and advised on weeknights
Pizzeria Pappagone
Cuisine: Italian
Website: http://www.pizzeriapappagone.co.uk/index.html
Budget: Cheap
In a nutshell:
Don't be put off by the cheesy slogan – “It’sa nice’a place to stuffa your face”. This is the kind of trattoria that every neighbourhood should have; a family run business, the staff are always friendly and the atmosphere is warm and inviting. The food is by no means fantastic, but this is a trattoria so you shouldn’t expect it to be; its decent food at good prices and the portions are huge. I’ve rarely managed a dessert, though the pistachio gelato is always tempting. Unless you really go to town you can get away with £20 per person including drinks.
Other info:
- Open till midnight 7 days/week – probably the only place you can get a late night restaurant meal in this part of town
Public House
Cuisine: Modern British
Website: http://www.boutiquepubs.com/
Budget: Cheap to mid-range
In a nutshell:
Public House somehow manages to be both warm and welcoming, hip and chic. Swathes of material, deep colours and moody lighting make for a classy backdrop, while eccentric touches, such as a mannequin wearing a Hawaiian garland and mismatched chairs, keep things fun and unpretentious. It is a good sign when a menu has so many great dishes you can't choose, a situation I have found myself in every time. Fillet of rainbow trout, slow cooked fennel, crayfish sauce and preserved lemon was the highlight of the last visit, while pigs cheeks braised in Somerset cider with mash and crackling thrilled on the first. There is almost always an offer on food, but even without one, it's seriously good value.
Other info:
- Check the website for the latest deals on food - 2 courses for £10 on Tuesday is a regular feature, 2 courses and a glass of sparkling for £19.50 is another, or how about a bloody mary with your Sunday roast for £15
St John’s Tavern
Cuisine: Modern European (gastropub)
Website: http://www.stjohnstavern.com/
Budget: Mid-range
In a nutshell:
Not to be confused with St John, Fergus Henderson’s Michelin star restaurant, though you won’t be hugely disappointed if you do. The large dining room, homely and eclectic, is a lovely place for Sunday lunch. Fish dishes are particularly good, a whole bream with panzanella my favourite memory, though nothing will ever beat the morcilla with piquillo pepper and duck egg, a regular feature on the starter menu. For something lighter, the bar menu offers a nice range of small dishes – mostly British staples (homemade scotch eggs, pasties and scratchings) with a few Spanish inspired tapas thrown in.
Other info:
- Booking advised on weekends, especially if you want to sit in the dining room, rather than the bar
Trullo
Cuisine: Italian
Website: http://www.trullorestaurant.com/
Budget: Mid-range
In a nutshell:
Within barely a month of opening, Trullo had already received several rave reviews from top food writers so getting a booking was a lesson in perseverance. Having secured a booking (a month in advance on a Tuesday night) I found myself wondering whether it would be worth the effort. It was. Head Chef, Tim Siadatan, who started his career at Jamie Oliver’s Fifteen, has continued the Italian theme at Trullo which offers “a simple, seasonally focused, Italian inspired menu that changes daily”. Specialties are handmade pasta and fish and meat cooked on the charcoal grill. The (mostly Italian) wine list is well thought out and, like the food, reasonably priced.
Other info:
- The hype has subsided somewhat which means it is easier to get a booking. Still, it is advisable to book at least a week in advance for weekends
- Jay Rayner’s review here, David Sexton’s review here
Villiers Terrace
Cuisine: International
Website: http://www.villiersterracelondon.com/home.htm
Budget: Mid-range
In a nutshell:
This is another one where it is the venue rather than the food that is the main selling point and, yes, I am talking about the terrace; a lovely place to while away a sunny afternoon. Food is an eclectic mix of Mediterranean dishes and British classics, with the occasional Asian flavour thrown in. It’s nothing exceptional, but I’ve never had a bad meal there. The venue coupled with friendly and accommodating staff and a relaxed atmosphere are enough to keep me coming back.
Other info:
- On a sunny day, shade is limited, so get their early if you can’t handle the heat
Yipin
Cuisine: Chinese (Hunanese, Szechuan and Cantonese)
Website: http://www.yipinchina.co.uk/
Budget: Mid-range
In a nutshell:
Yipin touts itself as a Hunanese restaurant, though it does a number of Szechuan and Cantonese dishes too. In my experience, their Hunanese and Szechuan food is best. These cuisines share a love of garlic and chilli and a predilection for offal. This menu is no exception, with dishes such as dry-wok pigs’ intestines and assorted meats in fiery sauce, including cubed pigs’ blood, frogs’ legs, intestines and tripe, among the more adventurous dishes. If this sounds like a Halloween prank to you, never fear, there is plenty on the menu for those who aren’t game. Dry-wok squid is one of my favourites, soft and supple squid with crisp vegetables and just the right amount of heat. They also do a good rendition of the classic Hunan dish, Chairman Mao’s red-braised pork, and the staple Szechuan side of dry fried green beans with minced pork.
If you have any suggestions for North London restaurants please leave a comment or email me. I will endeavour to update this post overtime as I try new places.
Reader Comments (7)
O my! I was beginning to think you had taken me to barely any of your favourites...luckily my numbers went up as I read further!
Now all I want is to be in a beer garden with you in London, with some sort of delicious meaty goodness and ...a beer or two! boo!
Im super impressed as always with your eating abilities!
xxx
Hi Cha - I did try to take you to as many as possible, but as I recall even you got fed up with eating out in the month you were here, though 5 out of 16 isn't that bad going given you made it to most of the central London favourites too :)
Beer gardens are the bestest and the sun has now found its way back to English skies so I shall be making the most of both, my excuse being that some of these recommendations don't have pictures...
Vicky,
I didn't realise there were so many more wonderful places for you to take me to in North London. I must say Ottolenghi stands out for me, I frequently go there for lunch if I am in the neighbourhood. I certainly remember that dish of girolles and lentils at the Drapers Arms, and have often cooked it for myself since, reasonably successfully. The Flask is an old favourite of mine. It's always been a great place to have a beer on a hot day. When I first went there around 30 years ago the food was rubbish - how things have changed. When you took me to Doctori I found that it was every bit as good as you had cracked it up to be. I'm meeting a friend in North London on Monday , so will try one of these recommendations and will report back.
I just remembered going to Trullo with you a year ago when it first opened. I have just checked a menu online and I see that it appears to be as good value as it was then. We must go again sometime
Hi Ma, Ottolenghi is one of my favourites too; the flavours are so fresh and vibrant. Dotori is always a winner too, I'm glad you liked it as much as me. The time I had the mackerel at The Flask was with you, it was the first time I ate there, though I'd had drinks a few times before. You have been to St John's Tavern too, we went on my bday last year. X
Went to the Draper's Arms with Al last monday (on your recommendation!) Had a really wonderful dinner, both the company (of course) and the food. My mackerel tasted fantastic and I really liked the addition of the pickled gooseberries. New potatoes were perfectly cooked. Alison's veal cheek pie was great too with lovely waxy pastry and very green spring greens. We shared a bottle and a bit of Verdejo and had a whale of a time. I nearly forgot the chocolate and hazlenot torte but not sure how because it was the best dessert I've had for many months. True, I don't usually have dessert, but that could make me change my habits. The atmosphere and decorations there are great, we probably should have moved tables before the large and noisy party sat down next to us, but we moved closer together and din't care too much. A great recommendation Vicky, thanks!
Sue
Hi Sue, so glad you liked it and that everything was spot on (as I said, it can be hit and miss). I am not a dessert person either so I am always impressed by one that makes me want more than a mouthful or two. Pickled gooseberries sound great! Ma was raving about her pie as well.