Sunday lunch at The Nut Tree Inn
Tuesday, May 17, 2011 at 7:52AM 
The boyfriend loves a good freebie. Actually, that’s a lie – he likes any old freebie. He once filled out an online form three times to win three free footballs; he doesn’t play football and they sat in the bottom of the cupboard for a year, along with all the mini bottles of shampoo and conditioner that he pockets when he stays in hotels, until he realised he could get a few quid for them on ebay and sold them (the footballs, not the toiletries, which are still there despite my attempts to shift them).
Things have started looking up since he started working for a company who prides themselves on treating their staff to freebies. One of the many perks of his job, and by no means the best one, is that he has two free memberships for the National Trust. This is a blessing and a curse. Don’t get me wrong, I like visiting nice country estates and gardens every now and then, but I do not want to visit every National Trust property within 100km of London simply because I can do so for free. On the other hand, a trip in the car to a country estate inevitably means pub lunch and, as it turns out, the home counties are choc-a-bloc with great places to eat.
The Nut Tree Inn is situated in the tiny village of Murcott; a stone’s throw from the M40, it is an easy daytrip from London (and well worth it) but if you are already in the area even better – the drive from Oxford or the surrounding villages is typical of these parts, by which I mean beautiful; narrow winding roads lined by unruly hedges and wild spring flowers punctuated by quaint antiquated villages that time forgot.
One glance at the menu and the illusion is broken. This is modern British at its best. Indeed if it weren’t for the idyllic surrounds I could easily be fooled into thinking I was in a hip London gastropub.
The boyfriend had already been dragged up and down numerous country lanes in search of lunch and dinner the previous day, not to mention being talked into sharing starters and mains once we found somewhere. So come Sunday lunch he was fed up and I couldn't really blame him when he made it clear at the beginning of the meal that this was a quick pit stop and not the langourous lunch I had been envisaging:
“Before you try to convince me, I’m not sharing and I’m not having a starter.”
“Well, I’m having one. Is that ok?”
"Hmm"
I took that to mean yes and ordered the pan fried terrine of pigs head and black pudding with sauerkraut, piccalilli dressing and fried quails eggs (£8.50), which was every bit as good as it sounded and then some.
In an attempt to keep the boyfriend on side for the journey home, I offered to share it with him. An offer I couldn’t help regretting slightly when upon its arrival he pronounced,
“You have your half first, honey.”
Half? I don’t recall suggesting we split it.
It was surprisingly light given the ingredients, the sharp piccalilli dressing and tangy sauerkraut contrasting deliciously with the salty pork and sausage.
Although he did admit that my choice of stater was first rate, the boyfriends lack of interest in the whole affair is underlined by the fact that he cannot remember what he had for his main. I asked him just now what type of fish it was and it took him several minutes to remember the pub itself, let alone what he ate there.
As you can see it was some sort of white fish, possibly pollock, served with crushed royal jersey potatoes, grilled asparagus and sauce vierge. It was a simple dish, perfectly balanced. The sauce vierge made a wonderful condiment, lifting but not overpowering the delicate flavour of the fish, which was flaky and moist with a crisp skin.
For my main I had the open lasagne of wild mushrooms and leeks with reggiano parmesan and tarragon (£16.50). It is rare that I choose the vegetarian option and even rarer that I don’t regret it. A tumble of homemade pasta drizzled with rich, creamy béchamel, layered with buttery leeks and offset with earthy mushrooms and fresh green peashoots.
The only thing that was lacking was the service. Admittedly, we were sitting in the courtyard (the only table eating outside) and it was towards the end of the lunch service, but given we had a booking and had been in to let them know we’d arrived and where we were sitting, I should not have had to go back in 15 minutes later to get a menu and then again to ask if we could order. When they got to the table, the staff were very friendly, so I am sure had we been sitting indoors we would have had a different experience, but it was a pity in what was otherwise a faultless meal.
The Good Food Guide 2010 gave The Nut Tree Inn an award for the best use of local produce. This focus on the local and the seasonal approach to cooking is immediately evident in the sample menu where Oxfordshire beef and lamb feature alongside fish from wetter parts of the British Isles.
“Our menu changes frequently in order to make the most out of the best ingredients available. All items are made in house from fresh, raw ingredients and are free range, wild or organic whenever possible.”
They also received a cooking score of five, which is the same as Gordon Ramsay at Claridge’s and Nobu, and several points better than The Ivy the same year.
"Michael North’s cooking is exact and assured, coaxing the most flavor possible from these top-quality ingredients.”
Not bad for a place that time forgot.
The Nut Tree Inn: Main St, Murcott, Oxon, OX5 2RE; 01865 331 253
Tues-Sat: Lunch 12-2.30pm, Dinner 7-9pm; Sun: Lunch 12-3pm; Bank holiday Mon: 12-2.30pm
Entrees from £8.50 to £12.50; Mains from £16.50 to £27
Reader Comments (5)
This sounds like somewhere I should try to get to in the summer. Your photos are stunning.
Yes, I definitely recommend it. Thanks re. photos, just goes to show what a difference good lighting makes.
Looks lovely!
I think the pigs terrine may stir some ideas for the next menu at orto!
The cripsy skin fish looks delicious....sooooo cripsy!
x
ps...
i wish i got freebies...
Yeah, the terrine was awesome - by far the best dish I've eaten this year. And that is saying something!