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"Cooking, in effect, took part of the work of chewing and digestion and performed it for us outside of the body, using outside sources of energy. Also, since cooking detoxifies many potential sources of food, the new technology cracked open a treasure trove of calories unavailable to other animals. Freed from the necessity of spending our days gathering large quantities of raw food and then chewing (and chewing) it, humans could now devote their time, and their metabolic resources, to other purposes, like creating a culture."

Michael Pollan

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Friday
Oct072011

Posh guinea pig

Yep, that’s right, I ate a guinea pig. In Peru cuy is something of a local delicacy. 

Usually it is served like this:

I cheated and went to a posh restaurant. Had it confit:

Looks much more appetising, doesn't it? 

Looks.

You can’t get away from the fact that guinea pigs just aren’t that tasty, no matter how you cook them. Most people I spoke to said they tasted like chicken, but if I were a chook I’d be mightily insulted by such a comparison,

“What’s that you say? Them cuy got no meat on ’em baby. All skin and bones. Ain’t got nothing on my breasts and thighs.”

People tend to say ‘tastes like chicken’ to describe any meat that doesn’t have a distinct flavour, which is a bit unfair, because a good free range roast chook is tastes fantastic and guinea pig, well, doesn’t.

Cooking meat confit means cooking it slowly in fat, usually its own, and a lot of it. And everyone knows fat equals flavour. But even this was not enough to save the cuy.

Now I love crab, but unless it is one of those big ass mothers, like the ones at Golden Century Seafood restaurant in Sydney, I find them a lot of work for very little return. But at least what you do get is worth the effort. Cuy is a lot of effort but when you do manage to prize a morsel of meat away from the bones it is thoroughly disappointing.

The cuy came with the skin on and I asked whether I should eat it. The waitress said “Yes, it’s the best bit”. That is what I would say if someone from Mars asked me whether they should eat the skin on a chicken. And I would be right. But she was wrong. Imagine bacon rind that has been cooked, but not crisped, minus half the fat and all of the flavour. That’s it.

I know cuy it is part of Perus’s cultural heritage, as explained on Wikipedia:

Traditionally, the animal was reserved for ceremonial meals by indigenous people in the Andean highlands, but since the 1960s it has become more socially acceptable for consumption by all people.

But if it is no longer tied to tradition, then why bother? Is it just for the tourists I wonder. It certainly has no other merits.

The sauces should have brightened things up a bit, but only did so visually. The yellow chilli sauce was colourful and looked promising, but was actually quite bland, tasting vaguely of mais and not much else. The panca sauce was the better of the two, but didn’t pack a punch. Aji panca is a Peruvian chilli and the sauce, like the chilli, was mildly spicy with a smoky flavour.

The best part of the meal, if I am honest, was the garlic mash –  smooth, creamy and well seasoned with a nice touch of parsley. With such little meat on the guinea pig, I wished there was more.

It didn’t come cheap either, well not for Peru anyway. I was still hungry when I finished, but as a backpacker coming to the end of a long trip I couldn’t really justify ordering another main course. Instead I went and got a cheese and salad sandwich from the markets. It cost me 2 soles (about 40 pence). It was simple, but tasty, salty and  satisfying. And it did what it was supposed to, it filled me up. I can’t even say that of the cuy.

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Reader Comments (8)

Which only goes to show that some people will eat anything. Remind me to keep a close eye on my cat !

October 27, 2011 | Unregistered CommenterAnonymous

From how you described the meal, it sounds more like the cuy you ate was at a fancy restaurant that made a bigger deal of presentation than taste.

It does look beautiful, but if the sauces didn't taste good, then you can't blame the meat for tasting horrid.

I remember one gorgeous potroast I had a week ago at a very posh looking restaurant that tasted like cardboard. I can assure you, if it was my first time having beef, I would have been turned off for life.

July 1, 2012 | Unregistered CommenterBIppy

Hi Bippy - you may be right; a friend of mine whose opinion on food I value said she really enjoyed cuy when she tried it, but I am still not convinced. The meat was not cooked in the sauces, they were just on top, so it was easy to distinguish the meat from the sauce and I still found it disappointing. Even if the flavour of the meat is better when cooked another way, it still doesn't solve the problem of too many bones and not enough meat.

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