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"Cooking, in effect, took part of the work of chewing and digestion and performed it for us outside of the body, using outside sources of energy. Also, since cooking detoxifies many potential sources of food, the new technology cracked open a treasure trove of calories unavailable to other animals. Freed from the necessity of spending our days gathering large quantities of raw food and then chewing (and chewing) it, humans could now devote their time, and their metabolic resources, to other purposes, like creating a culture."

Michael Pollan

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Wednesday
Nov012017

Short & Sweet: Frenchie

Style: Modern French with a focus on seasonal produce.

Budget: Expensive, though the lunch menu is quite reasonable (£26 for 2 courses, £29 for 3 courses) and taken straight from the a la carte menu.

Venue and atmosphere: Classy and elegant like the food. Ask for a seat at the back of the restaurant near the windows.

Service: A bit too eager and then not eager enough; trying to hurry us at the beginning, but then nowhere to be found when we actually wanted something and not disguising the fact that they found us a pain. Admittedly, we were being quite demanding, but we also ordered everything on the menu (really) so… be nice to us. 

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Saturday
Oct142017

Short & Sweet: Westerns Laundry

Style: Modern European

Budget: Mid-range.

Venue and atmosphere: All the usual minimalist features (exposed brick, bulbs and concrete floor), softened by loads of natural light, beautiful flower arrangements and a stylish bar overlooking the open kitchen.

Service: Casual and friendly, but efficient. Good knowledge of the menu and wine list, which translates into great recommendations. (This is crucial with a menu like this, as you’ll want to order everything.)

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Saturday
Sep302017

Short & Sweet: Brawn

Style: Modern European

Budget: Mid-range, though if, like me, you try every wine by the glass and almost every item on the menu, it soon adds up…

Venue and atmosphere: Cosy neighbourhood wine bar and restaurant.

Service: Casual, friendly and knowledgeable. Often Australian. It can sometimes be hard to get their attention when they are busy, but otherwise on point.

Food: Most of their produce is sourced from Natoora, which imports the most flavourful varieties of fruit and vegetables from Europe and the UK, along with some other top of the range products like charcuterie, cheese and Lolin anchovies.

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Friday
Sep012017

Buffalo wings with blue cheese sauce

Sometime, about a year ago, I discovered quite how easy my favourite chicken wings are to make. 3 litres of Frank’s Hot Sauce and an artery busting amount of butter later and I'm not sure if that's a blessing or a curse. Yep, that’s right. Buffalo sauce contains just two simple ingredients: Frank’s Hot Sauce and melted butter.

The blue cheese dip that inevitably accompanies them is another fantastically simple and calorific concoction – shop-bought mayonnaise and creamy blue cheese. No wonder America is the world’s most obese nation. This discovery has certainly added a few inches to my waistline.

I'm going to go with blessing in any case because sitting down to a plate of buffalo chicken, inhaling the saucy meat then sucking each bone dry before proceeding to run my finger (and sometimes tongue) around the plate to lick up every last speck of sauce is the true definition of finger lickin’ good.

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Wednesday
Aug302017

Short & Sweet: Ellory

Style: Modern European

Budget: Depends how greedy you are. Around £100/head if you want to do it properly, i.e. all the dishes you want, a nice bottle and some aperitifs and digestives. Good value for money at this level.

Venue and atmosphere: Michelin-starred restaurant without the ponce or hefty price tag. Converted warehouse space with minimalist design that somehow manages to feel warm and unpretentious. 

Service: Manages to strike that perfect balance between friendly and efficient, casual and knowledgeable. Ask questions – they are very willing to help and you will be expertly guided towards good decisions. 

Food: The dishes at Ellory appear deceptively simple, but there is clearly a lot of thought behind the combinations, which both surprise and delight.

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