Short & Sweet: Ellory

Style: Modern European

Budget: Depends how greedy you are. Around £100/head if you want to do it properly, i.e. all the dishes you want, a nice bottle and some aperitifs and digestives. Good value for money at this level.

Venue and atmosphere: Michelin-starred restaurant without the ponce or hefty price tag. Converted warehouse space with minimalist design that somehow manages to feel warm and unpretentious. 

Service: Manages to strike that perfect balance between friendly and efficient, casual and knowledgeable. Ask questions – they are very willing to help and you will be expertly guided towards good decisions. 

Food: The dishes at Ellory appear deceptively simple, but there is clearly a lot of thought behind the combinations, which both surprise and delight.

The octopus with lardo and coco de paimpol beans was a perfect meeting of shore and sea. Wafer thin, salty pork fat glistening atop a meltingly tender tentacle, hearty beans bringing things back to earth and lemony squid ink sauce tying it all together.

The dish of mussels with smoked butter and sea aster put a novel spin on the traditional union of seafood and smoke. It was also lighter than you might expect, thanks to the salty freshness of the sea aster, a seashore plant.

The dishes are designed for sharing, so go with a few people and order the lot. We ordered most of them and none disappointed. 

Drink: Like the food, the wine is carefully selected, refined and sometimes surprising, with interesting varietals from across Europe. Prices start around £25 up to around £100, with a handful by the glass and some great choices around the £40 mark.

In a nutshell: Elegant and thoughtful seasonal dishes, which elevate the natural flavour and vibrancy of the produce, without overdoing it.

Out of 10: 9

Ellory: Netil House, 1 Westgate St, London, E8 3RL; +44 (0)20 3095 9455; hello@ellorylondon.com