Incredible Indian at The Red Fort
Sunday, February 23, 2014 at 9:14PM 
The Red Fort is not a typical Indian restaurant. No Bollywood music or Ganesha figurines in sight. Instead I am surrounded by tables laid with plush white tablecloths and elegant glass and silverware in a room of tasteful, muted tones. Am I in the right place? The smell of cloves and cardamom suggests that I am.
The Red Fort is in the Michelin guide and the prices on the a la carte menu reflect that, but they also do a set menu, which is a steal at £15 for two courses or £18 for three. Perhaps a little more than an average Indian meal, but the portions are quite substantial and the quality far surpasses anything else I’ve had in London, or anywhere else for that matter.
The elegance of the decor extended to the food. Flavours still packed a punch, but there was an element of delicacy and refinement which gave it an edge over most Indian meals I have eaten. Care had been taken in the selection and cooking of aromatics and spices, which could be singled out and identified, and it was far less greasy than your average Indian meal.
My starter of spinach and fenugreek patties with cheese, onion and coriander is a case in point. A light, mild option for vegetarians and meat eaters alike, it was beautifully presented and skilfully crafted, so that a crisp exterior of fenugreek seeds gave way to soft spinach and an oozing cheese centre.
My friend, Shaun, had the Murgh Kebab. Minced lamb kebabs are so often tough and overcooked, but these were remarkably tender. It had a nice kick from the chilli, which was well balanced with a cooling mint and onion salsa.
Salmon from the tandoor was basted in a tangy tamarind sauce, with a hint of tandoori spices. It was a great dish, but my favourite main was the Hyderabadi Bhuna Gosht, a curry of Herdwick lamb, cooked long and slow to melting tenderness, with ginger, garlic, coriander and red chilli.
Sadly, we couldn’t manage dessert.
This was quite possibly the best Indian meal I have ever eaten. Given we were on the set menu, I can’t begin to imagine how good the a la carte must be. And I will probably never find out. If you can feel this full and experience this much pleasure for less than £20, why pay more?
The Red Fort: 77 Dean St, London, W1D 3SH; +44 (0)20 7437 2525
Mon-Fri: Lunch 12-3pm; Mon-Sat: Dinner 5.30-11.30pm; Sun: Dinner 5.30-10.30pm
Entrees from £6 to £14; Mains from £7 to £38
Set menu £15 (2 courses) or £18 (3 courses); Tasting menu £49
Reader Comments (3)
Hi Vix, What a fantastic meal that must have been , and what a great review - elegant like the decor and the food.You've made me want to out it on the list next time you are in London. I will tell Dick Parata to look at your blog- he is a good amateur cook of Indian food and something of a connoisseur.
This sounds delightful and SO cheap!
Chris is always harassing me to get Indian food - but I very rarely feel like it - I suspect that if I had an option like this I would be far more enthusiastic!
Lovely post Vix! The photos of those first two dishes are wonderful!
Hi Ma, thanks for your comment. Yes, let's definitely go next time you are here. It'd be a great option for before or after the theatre :)
Hi Cha, thanks for positive feedback. I'm the same, I rarely feel like Indian, but mainly cause it is often so bad. I knew this was going to be good cause it has been in the Michelin Guide for years, and really good Indian is definitely worth it! :)