Shakshuka is my new favourite weekend brunch. I was introduced to it via Ottolenghi’s Mediterranean Feast on Channel 4. In the last episode, Ottolenghi visits Israel where he grew up. Everything looks so delicious that it made me want to book a holiday right there and then. Since I’m a poor student and can’t afford that any time soon, I’ve made do with cooking this at home. Frequently.
Shakshuka “was brought to Israel by Tunisian Jews. It is a rustic concoction of eggs poached in a fiery tomato sauce, a bit like a sort of spicy fry up” says Ottolenghi. “It’s great for brunch and a fantastic hangover cure.”
There are lots of other versions out there, for example, the Italians do uova in purgatorio (eggs in purgatory) and the Morrocans do it in a tagine with lamb. I think the traditional Israeli version is my favourite though, not in small part because it includes my favourite sausages, merguez.
In the show Ottolenghi goes to Tel Aviv’s most famous shakshuka spot, Dr Shakshuka, to learn from the Doctor himself. The traditional recipe below is taken from this segment of the show. The measurements aren’t given, but I have tested it out a few times and this works well.
I have made a few minor changes. Dr Shakshuka cooks the merguez in the shakshuka, but I found that stewing them in the sauce not only overcooked them, but gave them a weird texture and consistency, a bit like boiled frankfurters. For this reason, I cook them in the pan and then remove them and serve on the side. Since tomatoes are not always as flavourful as they should be in the UK, I also add some tomato paste. I serve with some extra condiments as well, all marked optional.
Update: A reader, Sandra, has helpfully commented that she didn't find 3 tomatoes to be enough. It really depends how big the tomatoes are and how juicy you want it. The recipe is totally flexible and to taste - play with your food and enjoy.
Serves two generously.
Ingredients
1 tbsp olive oil
2 merguez sausage
3 large green chillies
6 cloves garlic, roughly chopped
1 tbsp sweet paprika
3 large overripe tomatoes, diced
Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste
1 tbsp tomato paste (optional)
4 eggs
To serve
Handful coriander leaves (optional)
Garlic yoghurt (optional)
1 tsp sumac (optional)
Crusty bread
Method
Preheat the oven to 150C.
Heat the olive oil over a medium heat in a medium-sized frying pan. Add the two merguez sausages and cook for 5 minutes, turning regularly so that they are evenly browned. Remove from pan and put on a tray in the oven to keep warm (if they aren’t quite cooked this will finish the job).
Large green chillies should be mild, but if not, remove the pith and seeds and put to one side. Roughly chop the chillies and add them to the frying pan along with the garlic, paprika and tomatoes. Cook for 5 minutes or until the chilli peppers start to soften.
Season with salt and pepper. Taste the sauce for heat – if you want it spicier add some of the seeds from the chillies. If you think it could benefit from a richer tomato flavour, add the tomato paste.
Make a small well for each of the eggs before adding them to the pan. Crack each egg individually in a bowl first. When you get air bubbles coming through the whites, use a skewer to puncture and swirl the skewer through the whites around the yolks, careful not to break the yolks. Cook until the whites are done, but the yolks are still runny (or firm if that is your preference).
While the eggs are cooking, put the bread in the oven to warm through and crisp up.
To serve
If using, garnish with dollops of garlic yoghurt and coriander leaves and sprinkle with sumac. Serve with warm, crusty bread.
