I had been told not to expect much from Puno. My friend BB described it as “a sort of Costa del Sol for people who don’t have access to the sea”. The only reason most people visit Puno is get to the Lake Titicaca islands, myself included. I wasn’t expecting there to be much of interest to see, let alone eat.
Well I have been in Peru for 3 weeks now and, surprising as it is, my first meal in Puno was among the top three. And all the more pleasant for being completely unexpected.
I was actually in search of another cevicheria written up in the Lonely Planet which it turned out had closed 3 years earlier (yes, mine is the latest edition!). So I asked for a recommendation and was pointed in the direction of El Erizo.
At 3pm, an hour before close, the restaurant was bustling with locals – a great sign. It is worth noting that cevicherias are only open for lunch since the Peruvians quite sensibly think that eating a big plate of cold, semi-raw fish is preferable in the middle of the day when it is hot.
For those of you who don’t know ceviche is wonderful dish originating from the coasts of Central and South America, although similar dishes can be found in Asia. It consists of raw fish marinated in lime or lemon juice with various herbs and spices. I describe the fish as “semi-raw” because, although it is not cooked over heat, the acid in the citric juices denature the proteins in the fish in the same way as cooking them would, at least partially.
Looking around El Erizo I could see plenty of ceviche – what I’d come for – as well as seafood platters, crustaceans and plates piled high with fried fish, but what really caught my eye was this:
Arroz con mariscos acompañado con zarza criollo, ali oleo y salsa de ají y cilantro – Rice with seafood accompanied with local salad (there is no real way to translate zarza criollo but it is basically a salad or chunky salsa made with tomato, red onion, lime, chilli and sometimes coriander or parsley), aioli and chilli and coriander sauce.
The mariscos included octopus, limpet, which I had never had before, and something else I had never tried before which remains a mystery. All were very tasty and texturally interesting, although some bits were a little overcooked. The rice itself was not packed full of flavour – garlic, a little chilli, some mild spices – but this was ideal because that is what the condiments were for.
The salsa de ají y cilantro really packed a punch, not in the chilli department but rather the garlic. Perhaps they were trying to make up for the fact that the dish did not actually come with aioli in the end because this tasted like a very strong garlic mayo with chilli and coriander as an after thought; it was great though! The tangy zarza criolla with its acidity balanced out what would have otherwise been a very salty dish, although it would have been better if it were more like the salsa version than the salad.
Of course I still had to have the ceviche which it turned out only came as an entrée – perfect … except that a starter portion was easily enough for two and you have seen the size of my main!
The marinade was spot on – zesty lime juice with a hint of chilli and plenty of coriander. Slices of red onion not only added flavour but a crisp contrast to the chunks of fish. At first I wasn’t sure about the yucca (similar to sweet potato) but after several mouthfuls I realised that it worked well in giving some respite from the acidity of the dressing. My only complaint would be that, although the fish was very fresh, the flesh was a little too meaty for a ceviche; the lime had done its ‘denaturing’ but the flesh did not melt in the mouth the way it should. Nonetheless, it was a top dish and I have had several ceviches since that didn’t match up.
So full marks for the food, what of the service? Perhaps I had been in Bolivia too long to give an entirely realistic appraisal because it was like a breath of fresh air. My waitress was efficient and attentive, I was not sneered at for asking questions and she profusely apologized when there was no Coke Zero, only regular. With enough leftover rice for dinner as well and a bill that came to less than 8 quid I certainly had no complaints!
